Monday, December 24, 2007

¡FELIZ NAVIDAD! (Merry Christmas - for those of you that haven't heard the song. How could you possibly not have heard the song?)

So, how do they celebrate Christmas over here? Why, with a march (or two or three) of course.






And with turkey, Paneton (like fruit cake but better), hot chocolate, fireworks and pressies at midnight on Christmas Eve. (I'm writing this on the 24th so will have to tell you how it all goes later.)



Christmas lights are also popular here, especially ones that play irritating tunes. And, have you ever wondered who buys those panpipe Christmas carol CDs you see for sale in the Warehouse? Peru.



Anyway, MERRY CHRISTMAS! to all. Have a fabulous day and a rockin' (but responsible) New Year's Eve.

Much love,
Karen

Monday, December 17, 2007

LAS ISLAS GALÁPAGOS (The Galapagos Islands)




Blue-footed Booby










Sea iguana



I've wanted to see giant tortoises since I was young and saw them on a tv documentary. I think I've successfully realized that partiular dream. There are thousands of them in the Galapagos Islands, they hang out in the paddocks like cows...


Here I am returning from a hard day of tortoise farming. I'm learning as I go. The old guys don't usually give me too much trouble but it's not as romantic as it looks, the herd can be a bit stubborn sometimes. Still not sure what I'm gonna do when it comes to milking time...


Skeleton of a fish. We saw a couple of live ones in the water too.






El Chico: A volcano. We also saw the second largest volcanic crater in the world. It was pretty big.


To my shame I can't remember this guy's name. I tried to remember it till I got to a piece of paper but I lost it somewhere along the way. Pretty poor showing of gratitude considering he/she carried me for three hours up a volcano and put up with my inept handling. We did some fab galloping together (granted, I left most of the galloping to him/her).


Now, I know what you're all thinking - "That's a nice bunch of photos, Karen, but where are the flamingoes?" Well, it's a bit of a sore subject at the moment cos I was promised flamingoes and was very excited at the thought of seeing them and then we didn't see any and then I was told there were some we could see the night before we were due to leave at 6am and we got up at 4.30am especially, but it was all dark and we didn't have time to wait cos we had to catch the plane and then the plane was two hours late anyway, and...aw, I was really disappointed.

But, we did see this bird...

...sure it's a lot smaller and less pink than a flamingo but according to our guide it's really rare and some birdwatcher looked for this little guy for four hours and didn't find him. We saw two without even trying and were told that made us incredibly lucky. Yeah, it still doesn't really fill the flamingo-shaped hole in my heart.

Friday, December 7, 2007

VOY A LAS GALAPAGOS

I'm going to the Ecuador tomorrow to go to the Galapagos Islands!!!!
That's all I have to say really. I'll let y'all know how it goes...

IR DE COMPRAS (Shopping)

You just gotta love a country where you can get your hair cut for $2.50 and buy 6 bananas for 50 cents. Apart from the fact that most things are nice and cheap for a rich gringa like me, shopping can be quite an interesting experience. I particularly enjoy when I get to haggle for a cheaper price.


In the smaller shops you can just wander in and ask for things when other customers are being served and the attendants can multi-task. In other more modern shops, pharmacies in particular, it takes up to three people to serve every customer. You submit your request to one person who then gives you a note to take to the cashier who takes your money and gives you a receipt to take to a different person to retrieve your purchase. I'm thinking it's a great way to decrease unemployment.


Generally, I really like how relaxed people are when you buy things. They'll sell you things separately like cigarettes and printer paper. They're not usually ingratiatingly friendly but mostly genuinely try to help you out and are perfectly happy to send you to another shop if they don't have what you want. And often, especially in Tumbes, they don't have what I want. I don't really expect that I should be able to satisfy my every whim but there are a number of things that have been surprisingly difficult to buy.

Here's a wee list for anyone thinking of coming to Peru, just in case you want to stock up.

  • Fresh milk and cream (for whipping). They have something called fresh milk that is like UHT milk but usually use something out of a can. I almost gave up on the cream after a couple of traumatic near misses that really didn't do anything to improve an already pathetic attempt at pavlova, but finally found something vaguely resembling whipped cream.
  • Real cheese should probably go here in the list and is another thing you can't really bring with you.
  • Postcards, writing paper, coloured card. Honestly, it's not just an excuse as to why more of you haven't received letters and postcards. It also costs a lot to send things in comparison to other prices in Peru. I think they haven't quite cottoned on to the whole tourist trade here yet.
  • Brown bread
  • Brown rice is also hard to buy and more expensive than white rice. I know it's also more expensive that white rice in New Zealand but my host father owns a rice mill and says that it's actually cheaper to make and they just charge more cos it's healthier.
  • Peanut butter. I've actually just found this in Chimbote and got quite excited in a slightly undignified manner.
  • Golden syrup
  • Sweetcorn. This one took me by surprise cos there's so much maize around.
  • Tampons. When I first arrived I laughed at the Canadian chick who had half a suitcase full of tampons with her 'just in case'. Not laughing now. They don't really sell them here cos they're not very culturally acceptable - most women seem to think that if you use a tampon before having sex for the first time you're no longer a virgin. (I don't know why more women don't use them after marriage, but maybe it has something to do with infidelity!) I have worked out which shop will sell them to me now so I don't have to embarrass any more shop assistants by asking for them.