Friday, November 30, 2007

NO HAY SOLUCION (There's no solution)

Por eso la huelga continua. (So the strike continues.) Last week I kept myself entertained by following my friend Ruben around on his job. He's working for AECI, a Spanish organization that works in partnership with DISA (my workplace), on various sexual education programmes.


LA CARCEL: TALLER DE VIH/SIDA (HIV/AIDS workshop in the prison)

Prison: Looks kinda tranquil, doesn't it? It was actually quite relaxed. There was a bit of security to get in (not much actually, not like the Grupo 5 concert where I got frisked on the way in) but once inside everyone just seemed to be hanging out. There's men and women together, they have separate quarters but can mix during the day. We chatted with the prisoners without a guard in sight most of the time.



Thought I better throw in this photo to make it look a bit more prison-like.




Ruben didn't seem to think that a chapel was an appropriate place for an HIV/AIDS workshop, but, I don't know, it seems to go with the whole salvation theme, if you ask me.


HOMOFOBIA PRESENTACION
This presentation was to a group of young people attending a leadership conference. I found it interesting and it raised a few questions for me. Below are a few snippets from Ruben's powerpoint presentation followed by an attempt at an English translation and some of my questions.


Definición de homofobia: Se refiere a la aversión, miedo irracional, odio, prejuicio o discriminación contra hombres y mujeres homosexuales

Definition of homophobia: the aversion, irrational fear, hatred, prejudice or discrimination against homosexual men and women.


Primero, tenemos que tener en cuenta que, como dice
la Declaración Universal de los Derechos Humanos:
“Todos los hombres nacen libres e iguales en dignidad
y derechos y, dotados como están de razón y conciencia,
deben comportarse fraternalmente los unos con los otros”

First, we have to keep in mind what it says in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights:

"All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. They are endowed with reason and conscience and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood (or sisterhood)."

La homosexualidad NO es:
- Producto de una educación deficiente
- “Contagiosa”
- Un problema hormonal
- Perversión o falta de valores
- Una enfermedad mental
- Problemas de soledad, autoestima, etc


Homosexuality is not:
- the product of a deficient education
- contagious
- a hormonal problem
- perversion or lack of values
- a mental illness
- problems of loneliness, self esteem, etc.

One question that I think someone asked (I'm not sure I understood it properly though) was, is it still discrimination if you disagree with someone's sexual lifestyle but don't act on your thoughts? For example, if you think it's wrong to be homosexual but you go about your life allowing others to live as they wish. Is it actually possible to avoid discriminating against someone if you think what they're doing is wrong, perverted, lacking in values?

I think it's easy not to think about these issues if you're not mixing with anyone that has a different sexuality or gender identification from yourself. But maybe that's a type of discrimination - avoiding a certain group of people so you're not forced to make a judgment about them.

Is it natural? I think for a Catholic society like Peru this is a particularly difficult question. Is homosexuality something that God intended? Is it a cultural thing? Many cultures have been practising homosexuality without shame since ancient times. Apparently in Iran the state supports sex changes (but oppose homosexuality) because it is accepted that sometimes a person of one gender might accidentally end up in the body of the opposite gender. Does God make mistakes? Homosexuality exists in the animal kingdom as well, does that mean it is a legitimate part of nature?

Comments?

Thursday, November 29, 2007

RRROMPE Y RRRAJA (Jolly Good Knees Up)

Last weekend I returned to Chimbote (where I had Spanish lessons when I first arrived in Peru) for the 60th birthday party of the father of my family there. Check out my 'dad's' suit below. It's almost as spectacular as the Mexican outfit his brother is wearing. The whole affair was rather flash. My Chimbote family have a third floor in their house designed especially for parties - complete with sound system, toilets and kitchen facilities. They even employed waiters in uniforms for the evening. We made it through about 300 litres of beer and I'm not sure how much pisco sour (I was trying not to be in the same vicinity as the pisco). Everyone was so busy dancing and drinking that they completely forgot the cake (despite plenty of leading questions from me as to when it might be cut) and we had to eat it for breakfast.


Birthday Boy: My Chimbote 'dad', Juan, is on the right and his brother, on the left, (not sure why he's dressed as a Mexican, couldn't work it out) is singing him a song about how he's made it to 60 years.


It was great to see the family again but I've been rather tactlessly telling everyone how glad I am that I don't live in Chimbote cos it's cold and smells of fish. But really, I was quite overwhelmed by the fish smell. It was the off-season when I was there last but now that fishing has started up and the factories are in business there is a constant fog of fishy fumes in the city centre (and sometimes they make it to Nuevo Chimbote where my family lives). It's very potent and it lingers on your clothes and in the cars. It was worth putting up with for a weekend though to hang out with the fabulous people that live in Chimbote. I also got to go to a Grupo Cinco concert. Grupo Cinco are Peru's answer to the Beatles (right down to the suits). There are numerous other groups that perform their songs and you can't walk down the road in any part of Peru without hearing a snatch of one of their hits from someone's stereo.



Grupo 5 (Cinco): Yeah, there are more than 5 of them. There's a whole army of them. There are usually only five guys singing and dancing at the front of the stage at any one time, though, and this may be where the name comes from. The music's very catchy and great to dance to. I've bought the CD/DVD so I can share the experience with New Zealand when I return.

Friday, November 23, 2007

TALLER INTERCULTURAL (Intercultural Workshop)

For our meeting in Lima all AFS participants had to write a couple of pages on a theme of their choice discussing their experiences and views of Peru. Below is what I wrote about development in Peru (it's only loosely about development, I just kinda started writing and then decided that development was more or less the theme). My editor/mummy suggested I put it on my blog and then later retracted and said that 'you never know who might be reading your blog'. But I figure, what are they gonna do? Accuse me of a terrorist act and lock me up? This isn't New Zealand. So here it is...

‘JUNTAS PARA EL DESARROLLO’ TOGETHER FOR DEVELOPMENT
(Government propaganda on a spare wall)

There is a great creative initiative in Peru. In New Zealand we’d call it ‘Kiwi ingenuity’ where it harkens from the days of early European Settlement in New Zealand. Starting a new settlement meant overcoming many obstacles and coming up with ingenious ideas with few resources. ‘It’s amazing what you can do with a plank of 4x2 (wood) and bit of no.8 fencing wire’ is a common catchphrase in New Zealand. Peru is very similar in this respect. Every second house seems to be selling something and the public transport system is an ingenious communal answer to the lack of an official public transport infrastructure in most of the cities. There are many things that make me smile at the sheer cheeky creativity of it all - a gymnasium in the back room of someone’s house with homemade steps for aerobics class, houses constructed of mud and old cans, the loud speaker advertising system, the march/caminata advertising system, the man with his cart that comes to collect the rubbish and the array of street vendors with their musical announcements, ‘duuuulces’. When I arrived I didn’t understand anything and would have been completely lost without local guides. The populace has adapted cleverly to a country that has been plagued by government inactivity and corruption.

As a privileged foreigner it is difficult not to notice the things I think need to be improved, and to have opinions on what should be done. The truth, however, is that Peru is changing every day of its own accord. I have met many people that have the ‘ganas’ to change things and improve the lives of others. Working alongside the Tumbes health board, where I have been volunteering, there are a number of agencies working to fight HIV/AIDS through education programmes. Others are organizing regular exercise events to combat obesity and other health issues. One university group uses a theatrical approach to promote healthy habits in schools and the wider community. I also had the privilege to attend a meeting of various organizations working to fight poverty in Peru. The group included teachers, government officials, human rights workers, health workers, and tourist operators amongst others.

SOMOS PERU – para un Peru avanzado (We are Peru – for an advanced Peru)
The problems are pretty obvious – rubbish in the streets and waterways, poverty, poor sanitation and access to basic provisions (water, electricity, phone lines and nutritious food), lack of adequate jobs and low salaries. But the root behind many of these problems is more subtle. Many people have told me this is a resource-rich country and one has to ask why the people are not reaping the benefits of this. Why is the government electricity company paying another company to provide the power, thus increasing prices for the consumer? Why is Peruvian rice so strictly regulated in China and the United States while these countries get away with exporting lower quality rice to Peru? Why is it possible to buy Peruvian gas cheaper in Ecuador than in Peru? There are police officers that will catch the person that stole your possessions but charge you a collection fee if you actually want your things returned, and classes in state schools are often left without a teacher for hours at a time. Almost every available wall in Tumbes carries government propaganda complete with love hearts to show how much the government cares for its people and how important it is for everyone to work together for the development of the nation. But saying it does not make it so. It reminds me of the bathroom I used that displayed a sign strongly encouraging users to wash their hands, but didn’t provide soap or water.

I think it is an interesting time for Peru. If it’s going to move forward I believe the people need to think about what they want the country to look like. It has been exciting to be able to attend forums that have brought together various organizations to discuss social issues and come up with plans to develop the local community. This is a fantastic and vital approach.

Does Peru have to make the same mistakes other nations have made?
For example, my host father wants to buy a big 4-wheel drive car like they have in America. At the same time, in New Zealand, the government is trying to convince the population to give up their gas-guzzling cars in favour of more environmentally-friendly forms of transport. Many people want a life like those possible in Europe and North America, but the truth is that these parts of the world consume too many resources and it is just not possible for everyone to live like that. We are creating vast quantities of waste in ‘first world’ countries - we just don’t leave it lying around in the streets. We’re better at sweeping it under the carpet. Almost 3.2 million tonnes of waste goes into New Zealand landfills each year. That’s almost one tonne (1000kg) per person in the country. And we are a country that likes to advertise a clean, green image. The United States, in 2001, generated 409 million tonnes of waste from a population of 283 million. It is obvious Peru needs to develop some basic systems to clean up the environment, but New Zealand and other ‘developed’ nations need to do the same thing. It would be great if Peru could just jump ahead and set an example for the rest of the world in terms of recycling and sustainability, rather than go through the same process, making the same mistakes as other countries.

I think intercultural exchanges are useful for this kind of approach to development. It is a learning approach that I think the people of Peru are very open to. More than most of the countries I have visited in the past, in Peru the people have been curious about my culture and keen to talk about differences in government and approaches to development.

However, in a country where it seems people are more likely to have cable tv than an adequate daily water supply, I think the influence of foreign materialism is a strong one. The classic ‘American Dream’ is a house with a white picket fence a dog and a car or two. But what is the Peruvian dream? Development should not just mean the ability to store up more treasure on earth. It should mean that everyone has access to basic necessities such as quality education, sanitation, health provision, food, shelter and justice. I believe the people of Peru have the initiative, creativity and desire to build a strong, just nation. All they need to do is get together and do it. I look forward to watching the development of this beautiful and fascinating country over the next few decades.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

LA SELVA (The Jungle)

Last weekend we had a wee field trip to Lima (well, an 18 hour bus ride isn't exactly 'wee'), to meet up with all our fellow gringos from around Peru, and then we headed into the jungle! Sounds exciting and exotic doesn't it? Imagine my disappointment when I discovered it was just like New Zealand. Check this out...
I don't know if you can see them but there's a whole bunch of ferns in this photo. There were also other trees that looked like Kahikatea and Rimu and other such NZ natives.
Bush walk: In some parts the earth was kinda red but further into the jungle it was just like the NZ bush, I swear to you it even smelt the same. I'm not alone in this, there were three other NZers there from the school programme and they all said the same thing. I would have taken more photos just to prove my point, but I didn't come all this way to take photos of New Zealand. If it wasn't for the occasional coffee and banana plantation I would have asked for my money back.

They did, however, also have some very authentic-looking locals...
These ladies live in the small village we stayed in for one night in Pichanaki. We had a wee bonfire with some jungle dancing and music and whatnot.

This guy is from an indigenous Indian community in Pichanaki. They dress up for the tourists and do cultural exhibitions of dancing, sports, and hunting, etc. of their community. It was fun. They were selling these hats but I couldn't find one that fit.

This chick is holding what looks like a large shuttlecock. It's for a game that's a mixture between badminton and volleyball. You play in teams of four and just hit it with your hands over the net, or, if you're me, you wave your hands around wildly and miss it every time until it gets to the point that they've given up being polite and just laugh at you and then cheer when you finally hit it.



Wednesday, November 7, 2007

LA HUELGA (The Strike)


I'm on strike. I want the government to improve my pay. I've just snuck into the office to spread union propaganda but I'll have to be quick cos I don't want to look like I've crossed the picket line.

The DISA workers are all on strike for the second time this year. The first strike lasted for a month and this one is scheduled to last a month if the government doesn't do anything. From what I understand (always a slightly subjective view of the facts considering my level of Spanish) they're asking for a 7% pay increase, there's some food thing they have to pay that they don't want to pay anymore, they want to be taken off monthly contracts and I think they said they'd like health insurance but I'm not sure I have understood that correctly cos it just seems too ironic.

I'm heading off to Lima on Thursday and then to the jungle for a few days so I'll have to show my solidarity from afar.

¡Si no hay solucion, la huelga continua!








Monday, November 5, 2007

CHICLAYO Y El SEÑOR DE SIPAN (Chiclayo and the rich important king fella)

I am now officially a tourist, as when our little tour bus stopped to cross a ditch on a recent field trip, I lined up with the other gringa chicks to take this photo of the locals going about their business.

Last weekend was a long weekend here in Tumbes so us foreigners popped down to Chiclayo (5-8 hours south of Tumbes, depending on your mode of transport) to try out big city life. It turned out to be a bit of a culture shock. Everything was so clean and shiny. We went shopping in the mall and ate fast food. We went to the movies and paid too much for popcorn. All the toilets had toilet paper and soap. It just didn't feel right.

LOS PIRAMIDES (The pyramids)

The remains of a pyramid in Túcume.

EL SEÑOR DE SIPAN (The Lord of Sipan)
El Señor is a mummy found untouched with 1200 pieces of gold in a tomb near Chiclayo in 1987. It is said to be the most important archaeological discovery of recent times. El Señor was a king of the Moche people in c.200 A.D. and may or may not have looked like this...

My Belgian friend is still confused as to why he was important enough to be buried with live sacrifices including his wife, concubines, guards, a small child, old person, dogs and all his riches. It makes perfect sense to me, though. It's the perfect solution to ensuring that no-one near to the king attempts to assassinate him in order to inherit some of his fortune. Instead they'd be working hard to make sure he survives for as long as possible.
Another fantastic idea the Moche people had was live sacrifices to provoke the gods to send rain. We saw a replica of one tomb that had (I think, but am not sure I followed the Spanish) more than 20 women that had been sacrificed. Some of them ordered in groups of women from the same family. Perhaps they could try that in Australia. It's also a good way to get rid of excess women. And, indeed, there are more women born in Peru than men. Perhaps this is an evolutionary development, though, to make up for the shortage of women during droughts. It's a bit chicken and egg.