Monday, December 24, 2007

¡FELIZ NAVIDAD! (Merry Christmas - for those of you that haven't heard the song. How could you possibly not have heard the song?)

So, how do they celebrate Christmas over here? Why, with a march (or two or three) of course.






And with turkey, Paneton (like fruit cake but better), hot chocolate, fireworks and pressies at midnight on Christmas Eve. (I'm writing this on the 24th so will have to tell you how it all goes later.)



Christmas lights are also popular here, especially ones that play irritating tunes. And, have you ever wondered who buys those panpipe Christmas carol CDs you see for sale in the Warehouse? Peru.



Anyway, MERRY CHRISTMAS! to all. Have a fabulous day and a rockin' (but responsible) New Year's Eve.

Much love,
Karen

Monday, December 17, 2007

LAS ISLAS GALÁPAGOS (The Galapagos Islands)




Blue-footed Booby










Sea iguana



I've wanted to see giant tortoises since I was young and saw them on a tv documentary. I think I've successfully realized that partiular dream. There are thousands of them in the Galapagos Islands, they hang out in the paddocks like cows...


Here I am returning from a hard day of tortoise farming. I'm learning as I go. The old guys don't usually give me too much trouble but it's not as romantic as it looks, the herd can be a bit stubborn sometimes. Still not sure what I'm gonna do when it comes to milking time...


Skeleton of a fish. We saw a couple of live ones in the water too.






El Chico: A volcano. We also saw the second largest volcanic crater in the world. It was pretty big.


To my shame I can't remember this guy's name. I tried to remember it till I got to a piece of paper but I lost it somewhere along the way. Pretty poor showing of gratitude considering he/she carried me for three hours up a volcano and put up with my inept handling. We did some fab galloping together (granted, I left most of the galloping to him/her).


Now, I know what you're all thinking - "That's a nice bunch of photos, Karen, but where are the flamingoes?" Well, it's a bit of a sore subject at the moment cos I was promised flamingoes and was very excited at the thought of seeing them and then we didn't see any and then I was told there were some we could see the night before we were due to leave at 6am and we got up at 4.30am especially, but it was all dark and we didn't have time to wait cos we had to catch the plane and then the plane was two hours late anyway, and...aw, I was really disappointed.

But, we did see this bird...

...sure it's a lot smaller and less pink than a flamingo but according to our guide it's really rare and some birdwatcher looked for this little guy for four hours and didn't find him. We saw two without even trying and were told that made us incredibly lucky. Yeah, it still doesn't really fill the flamingo-shaped hole in my heart.

Friday, December 7, 2007

VOY A LAS GALAPAGOS

I'm going to the Ecuador tomorrow to go to the Galapagos Islands!!!!
That's all I have to say really. I'll let y'all know how it goes...

IR DE COMPRAS (Shopping)

You just gotta love a country where you can get your hair cut for $2.50 and buy 6 bananas for 50 cents. Apart from the fact that most things are nice and cheap for a rich gringa like me, shopping can be quite an interesting experience. I particularly enjoy when I get to haggle for a cheaper price.


In the smaller shops you can just wander in and ask for things when other customers are being served and the attendants can multi-task. In other more modern shops, pharmacies in particular, it takes up to three people to serve every customer. You submit your request to one person who then gives you a note to take to the cashier who takes your money and gives you a receipt to take to a different person to retrieve your purchase. I'm thinking it's a great way to decrease unemployment.


Generally, I really like how relaxed people are when you buy things. They'll sell you things separately like cigarettes and printer paper. They're not usually ingratiatingly friendly but mostly genuinely try to help you out and are perfectly happy to send you to another shop if they don't have what you want. And often, especially in Tumbes, they don't have what I want. I don't really expect that I should be able to satisfy my every whim but there are a number of things that have been surprisingly difficult to buy.

Here's a wee list for anyone thinking of coming to Peru, just in case you want to stock up.

  • Fresh milk and cream (for whipping). They have something called fresh milk that is like UHT milk but usually use something out of a can. I almost gave up on the cream after a couple of traumatic near misses that really didn't do anything to improve an already pathetic attempt at pavlova, but finally found something vaguely resembling whipped cream.
  • Real cheese should probably go here in the list and is another thing you can't really bring with you.
  • Postcards, writing paper, coloured card. Honestly, it's not just an excuse as to why more of you haven't received letters and postcards. It also costs a lot to send things in comparison to other prices in Peru. I think they haven't quite cottoned on to the whole tourist trade here yet.
  • Brown bread
  • Brown rice is also hard to buy and more expensive than white rice. I know it's also more expensive that white rice in New Zealand but my host father owns a rice mill and says that it's actually cheaper to make and they just charge more cos it's healthier.
  • Peanut butter. I've actually just found this in Chimbote and got quite excited in a slightly undignified manner.
  • Golden syrup
  • Sweetcorn. This one took me by surprise cos there's so much maize around.
  • Tampons. When I first arrived I laughed at the Canadian chick who had half a suitcase full of tampons with her 'just in case'. Not laughing now. They don't really sell them here cos they're not very culturally acceptable - most women seem to think that if you use a tampon before having sex for the first time you're no longer a virgin. (I don't know why more women don't use them after marriage, but maybe it has something to do with infidelity!) I have worked out which shop will sell them to me now so I don't have to embarrass any more shop assistants by asking for them.

Friday, November 30, 2007

NO HAY SOLUCION (There's no solution)

Por eso la huelga continua. (So the strike continues.) Last week I kept myself entertained by following my friend Ruben around on his job. He's working for AECI, a Spanish organization that works in partnership with DISA (my workplace), on various sexual education programmes.


LA CARCEL: TALLER DE VIH/SIDA (HIV/AIDS workshop in the prison)

Prison: Looks kinda tranquil, doesn't it? It was actually quite relaxed. There was a bit of security to get in (not much actually, not like the Grupo 5 concert where I got frisked on the way in) but once inside everyone just seemed to be hanging out. There's men and women together, they have separate quarters but can mix during the day. We chatted with the prisoners without a guard in sight most of the time.



Thought I better throw in this photo to make it look a bit more prison-like.




Ruben didn't seem to think that a chapel was an appropriate place for an HIV/AIDS workshop, but, I don't know, it seems to go with the whole salvation theme, if you ask me.


HOMOFOBIA PRESENTACION
This presentation was to a group of young people attending a leadership conference. I found it interesting and it raised a few questions for me. Below are a few snippets from Ruben's powerpoint presentation followed by an attempt at an English translation and some of my questions.


Definición de homofobia: Se refiere a la aversión, miedo irracional, odio, prejuicio o discriminación contra hombres y mujeres homosexuales

Definition of homophobia: the aversion, irrational fear, hatred, prejudice or discrimination against homosexual men and women.


Primero, tenemos que tener en cuenta que, como dice
la Declaración Universal de los Derechos Humanos:
“Todos los hombres nacen libres e iguales en dignidad
y derechos y, dotados como están de razón y conciencia,
deben comportarse fraternalmente los unos con los otros”

First, we have to keep in mind what it says in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights:

"All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. They are endowed with reason and conscience and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood (or sisterhood)."

La homosexualidad NO es:
- Producto de una educación deficiente
- “Contagiosa”
- Un problema hormonal
- Perversión o falta de valores
- Una enfermedad mental
- Problemas de soledad, autoestima, etc


Homosexuality is not:
- the product of a deficient education
- contagious
- a hormonal problem
- perversion or lack of values
- a mental illness
- problems of loneliness, self esteem, etc.

One question that I think someone asked (I'm not sure I understood it properly though) was, is it still discrimination if you disagree with someone's sexual lifestyle but don't act on your thoughts? For example, if you think it's wrong to be homosexual but you go about your life allowing others to live as they wish. Is it actually possible to avoid discriminating against someone if you think what they're doing is wrong, perverted, lacking in values?

I think it's easy not to think about these issues if you're not mixing with anyone that has a different sexuality or gender identification from yourself. But maybe that's a type of discrimination - avoiding a certain group of people so you're not forced to make a judgment about them.

Is it natural? I think for a Catholic society like Peru this is a particularly difficult question. Is homosexuality something that God intended? Is it a cultural thing? Many cultures have been practising homosexuality without shame since ancient times. Apparently in Iran the state supports sex changes (but oppose homosexuality) because it is accepted that sometimes a person of one gender might accidentally end up in the body of the opposite gender. Does God make mistakes? Homosexuality exists in the animal kingdom as well, does that mean it is a legitimate part of nature?

Comments?

Thursday, November 29, 2007

RRROMPE Y RRRAJA (Jolly Good Knees Up)

Last weekend I returned to Chimbote (where I had Spanish lessons when I first arrived in Peru) for the 60th birthday party of the father of my family there. Check out my 'dad's' suit below. It's almost as spectacular as the Mexican outfit his brother is wearing. The whole affair was rather flash. My Chimbote family have a third floor in their house designed especially for parties - complete with sound system, toilets and kitchen facilities. They even employed waiters in uniforms for the evening. We made it through about 300 litres of beer and I'm not sure how much pisco sour (I was trying not to be in the same vicinity as the pisco). Everyone was so busy dancing and drinking that they completely forgot the cake (despite plenty of leading questions from me as to when it might be cut) and we had to eat it for breakfast.


Birthday Boy: My Chimbote 'dad', Juan, is on the right and his brother, on the left, (not sure why he's dressed as a Mexican, couldn't work it out) is singing him a song about how he's made it to 60 years.


It was great to see the family again but I've been rather tactlessly telling everyone how glad I am that I don't live in Chimbote cos it's cold and smells of fish. But really, I was quite overwhelmed by the fish smell. It was the off-season when I was there last but now that fishing has started up and the factories are in business there is a constant fog of fishy fumes in the city centre (and sometimes they make it to Nuevo Chimbote where my family lives). It's very potent and it lingers on your clothes and in the cars. It was worth putting up with for a weekend though to hang out with the fabulous people that live in Chimbote. I also got to go to a Grupo Cinco concert. Grupo Cinco are Peru's answer to the Beatles (right down to the suits). There are numerous other groups that perform their songs and you can't walk down the road in any part of Peru without hearing a snatch of one of their hits from someone's stereo.



Grupo 5 (Cinco): Yeah, there are more than 5 of them. There's a whole army of them. There are usually only five guys singing and dancing at the front of the stage at any one time, though, and this may be where the name comes from. The music's very catchy and great to dance to. I've bought the CD/DVD so I can share the experience with New Zealand when I return.

Friday, November 23, 2007

TALLER INTERCULTURAL (Intercultural Workshop)

For our meeting in Lima all AFS participants had to write a couple of pages on a theme of their choice discussing their experiences and views of Peru. Below is what I wrote about development in Peru (it's only loosely about development, I just kinda started writing and then decided that development was more or less the theme). My editor/mummy suggested I put it on my blog and then later retracted and said that 'you never know who might be reading your blog'. But I figure, what are they gonna do? Accuse me of a terrorist act and lock me up? This isn't New Zealand. So here it is...

‘JUNTAS PARA EL DESARROLLO’ TOGETHER FOR DEVELOPMENT
(Government propaganda on a spare wall)

There is a great creative initiative in Peru. In New Zealand we’d call it ‘Kiwi ingenuity’ where it harkens from the days of early European Settlement in New Zealand. Starting a new settlement meant overcoming many obstacles and coming up with ingenious ideas with few resources. ‘It’s amazing what you can do with a plank of 4x2 (wood) and bit of no.8 fencing wire’ is a common catchphrase in New Zealand. Peru is very similar in this respect. Every second house seems to be selling something and the public transport system is an ingenious communal answer to the lack of an official public transport infrastructure in most of the cities. There are many things that make me smile at the sheer cheeky creativity of it all - a gymnasium in the back room of someone’s house with homemade steps for aerobics class, houses constructed of mud and old cans, the loud speaker advertising system, the march/caminata advertising system, the man with his cart that comes to collect the rubbish and the array of street vendors with their musical announcements, ‘duuuulces’. When I arrived I didn’t understand anything and would have been completely lost without local guides. The populace has adapted cleverly to a country that has been plagued by government inactivity and corruption.

As a privileged foreigner it is difficult not to notice the things I think need to be improved, and to have opinions on what should be done. The truth, however, is that Peru is changing every day of its own accord. I have met many people that have the ‘ganas’ to change things and improve the lives of others. Working alongside the Tumbes health board, where I have been volunteering, there are a number of agencies working to fight HIV/AIDS through education programmes. Others are organizing regular exercise events to combat obesity and other health issues. One university group uses a theatrical approach to promote healthy habits in schools and the wider community. I also had the privilege to attend a meeting of various organizations working to fight poverty in Peru. The group included teachers, government officials, human rights workers, health workers, and tourist operators amongst others.

SOMOS PERU – para un Peru avanzado (We are Peru – for an advanced Peru)
The problems are pretty obvious – rubbish in the streets and waterways, poverty, poor sanitation and access to basic provisions (water, electricity, phone lines and nutritious food), lack of adequate jobs and low salaries. But the root behind many of these problems is more subtle. Many people have told me this is a resource-rich country and one has to ask why the people are not reaping the benefits of this. Why is the government electricity company paying another company to provide the power, thus increasing prices for the consumer? Why is Peruvian rice so strictly regulated in China and the United States while these countries get away with exporting lower quality rice to Peru? Why is it possible to buy Peruvian gas cheaper in Ecuador than in Peru? There are police officers that will catch the person that stole your possessions but charge you a collection fee if you actually want your things returned, and classes in state schools are often left without a teacher for hours at a time. Almost every available wall in Tumbes carries government propaganda complete with love hearts to show how much the government cares for its people and how important it is for everyone to work together for the development of the nation. But saying it does not make it so. It reminds me of the bathroom I used that displayed a sign strongly encouraging users to wash their hands, but didn’t provide soap or water.

I think it is an interesting time for Peru. If it’s going to move forward I believe the people need to think about what they want the country to look like. It has been exciting to be able to attend forums that have brought together various organizations to discuss social issues and come up with plans to develop the local community. This is a fantastic and vital approach.

Does Peru have to make the same mistakes other nations have made?
For example, my host father wants to buy a big 4-wheel drive car like they have in America. At the same time, in New Zealand, the government is trying to convince the population to give up their gas-guzzling cars in favour of more environmentally-friendly forms of transport. Many people want a life like those possible in Europe and North America, but the truth is that these parts of the world consume too many resources and it is just not possible for everyone to live like that. We are creating vast quantities of waste in ‘first world’ countries - we just don’t leave it lying around in the streets. We’re better at sweeping it under the carpet. Almost 3.2 million tonnes of waste goes into New Zealand landfills each year. That’s almost one tonne (1000kg) per person in the country. And we are a country that likes to advertise a clean, green image. The United States, in 2001, generated 409 million tonnes of waste from a population of 283 million. It is obvious Peru needs to develop some basic systems to clean up the environment, but New Zealand and other ‘developed’ nations need to do the same thing. It would be great if Peru could just jump ahead and set an example for the rest of the world in terms of recycling and sustainability, rather than go through the same process, making the same mistakes as other countries.

I think intercultural exchanges are useful for this kind of approach to development. It is a learning approach that I think the people of Peru are very open to. More than most of the countries I have visited in the past, in Peru the people have been curious about my culture and keen to talk about differences in government and approaches to development.

However, in a country where it seems people are more likely to have cable tv than an adequate daily water supply, I think the influence of foreign materialism is a strong one. The classic ‘American Dream’ is a house with a white picket fence a dog and a car or two. But what is the Peruvian dream? Development should not just mean the ability to store up more treasure on earth. It should mean that everyone has access to basic necessities such as quality education, sanitation, health provision, food, shelter and justice. I believe the people of Peru have the initiative, creativity and desire to build a strong, just nation. All they need to do is get together and do it. I look forward to watching the development of this beautiful and fascinating country over the next few decades.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

LA SELVA (The Jungle)

Last weekend we had a wee field trip to Lima (well, an 18 hour bus ride isn't exactly 'wee'), to meet up with all our fellow gringos from around Peru, and then we headed into the jungle! Sounds exciting and exotic doesn't it? Imagine my disappointment when I discovered it was just like New Zealand. Check this out...
I don't know if you can see them but there's a whole bunch of ferns in this photo. There were also other trees that looked like Kahikatea and Rimu and other such NZ natives.
Bush walk: In some parts the earth was kinda red but further into the jungle it was just like the NZ bush, I swear to you it even smelt the same. I'm not alone in this, there were three other NZers there from the school programme and they all said the same thing. I would have taken more photos just to prove my point, but I didn't come all this way to take photos of New Zealand. If it wasn't for the occasional coffee and banana plantation I would have asked for my money back.

They did, however, also have some very authentic-looking locals...
These ladies live in the small village we stayed in for one night in Pichanaki. We had a wee bonfire with some jungle dancing and music and whatnot.

This guy is from an indigenous Indian community in Pichanaki. They dress up for the tourists and do cultural exhibitions of dancing, sports, and hunting, etc. of their community. It was fun. They were selling these hats but I couldn't find one that fit.

This chick is holding what looks like a large shuttlecock. It's for a game that's a mixture between badminton and volleyball. You play in teams of four and just hit it with your hands over the net, or, if you're me, you wave your hands around wildly and miss it every time until it gets to the point that they've given up being polite and just laugh at you and then cheer when you finally hit it.



Wednesday, November 7, 2007

LA HUELGA (The Strike)


I'm on strike. I want the government to improve my pay. I've just snuck into the office to spread union propaganda but I'll have to be quick cos I don't want to look like I've crossed the picket line.

The DISA workers are all on strike for the second time this year. The first strike lasted for a month and this one is scheduled to last a month if the government doesn't do anything. From what I understand (always a slightly subjective view of the facts considering my level of Spanish) they're asking for a 7% pay increase, there's some food thing they have to pay that they don't want to pay anymore, they want to be taken off monthly contracts and I think they said they'd like health insurance but I'm not sure I have understood that correctly cos it just seems too ironic.

I'm heading off to Lima on Thursday and then to the jungle for a few days so I'll have to show my solidarity from afar.

¡Si no hay solucion, la huelga continua!








Monday, November 5, 2007

CHICLAYO Y El SEÑOR DE SIPAN (Chiclayo and the rich important king fella)

I am now officially a tourist, as when our little tour bus stopped to cross a ditch on a recent field trip, I lined up with the other gringa chicks to take this photo of the locals going about their business.

Last weekend was a long weekend here in Tumbes so us foreigners popped down to Chiclayo (5-8 hours south of Tumbes, depending on your mode of transport) to try out big city life. It turned out to be a bit of a culture shock. Everything was so clean and shiny. We went shopping in the mall and ate fast food. We went to the movies and paid too much for popcorn. All the toilets had toilet paper and soap. It just didn't feel right.

LOS PIRAMIDES (The pyramids)

The remains of a pyramid in Túcume.

EL SEÑOR DE SIPAN (The Lord of Sipan)
El Señor is a mummy found untouched with 1200 pieces of gold in a tomb near Chiclayo in 1987. It is said to be the most important archaeological discovery of recent times. El Señor was a king of the Moche people in c.200 A.D. and may or may not have looked like this...

My Belgian friend is still confused as to why he was important enough to be buried with live sacrifices including his wife, concubines, guards, a small child, old person, dogs and all his riches. It makes perfect sense to me, though. It's the perfect solution to ensuring that no-one near to the king attempts to assassinate him in order to inherit some of his fortune. Instead they'd be working hard to make sure he survives for as long as possible.
Another fantastic idea the Moche people had was live sacrifices to provoke the gods to send rain. We saw a replica of one tomb that had (I think, but am not sure I followed the Spanish) more than 20 women that had been sacrificed. Some of them ordered in groups of women from the same family. Perhaps they could try that in Australia. It's also a good way to get rid of excess women. And, indeed, there are more women born in Peru than men. Perhaps this is an evolutionary development, though, to make up for the shortage of women during droughts. It's a bit chicken and egg.

Monday, October 22, 2007

EL CENSO (The Census)


These wee cuties are part of a march advertising the census. Marches are very popular here and are often used as advertising.

I got counted in the census on Sunday. It's the first census in ages and was quite a big deal. Everything was closed and everyone had to stay in their houses all day. The census people visited every house to interview the inhabitants. I'm excited that I'm gonna be a part of the statistics. It was quite basic, not quite so exhaustive as the questionnaires in New Zealand.

LAS MANGLARES Y LA PLAYA


Yes, I am picking the most picturesque photos I can just to make y'all sufficiently jealous.

We went on a tour of some of the local mangroves and beaches with a company that has its own private beach. There was no-one but us three foreigners and the guide. Very relaxing and just what we needed.


This is a pelican. (After finally managing to get a good photo of the whole (Rach, what's the collective noun for pelicans?) ...of pelicans taking off, I've decided that a whole...of pelicans is not actually that picturesque. But there were lots of them.
I could tell you more but it was just sitting around on the beach sunbathing and punting through the mangroves checking out the wildlife and such like, and you probably don't really wanna hear about it.

TREINTA (Thirty)


These are my cakes. There was lots of food and people and dancing and pressies and a piniata. All you need, really, for a party. It all made it quite difficult to deny the fact that I'm well and truly thirty now.



This is my little sis and our neighbour dancing festejo. They're very good. They seem to have this innate ability to shake in a way I can't seem to reproduce.
Thanks everyone for the greetings and packages from home. I really appreciated it and felt well-loved from all over the world. It helped to ease the blow of my collision with the 30 milestone.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

LA LENGUA (The Language)

This post is in response to those who've been asking if my Spanish (commonly referred to as Castellano in these parts - there you go, that's one thing I've learned) is improving. The answer is...possibly. I think yes, but not as quickly as I'd like it to. ¨Poco a poco¨(little by little) they keep telling me. And little by little the desire to punch the next person that says ¨poco a poco¨is growing within me.

Some people manage to speak slowly for me and others don't. Sergio, my little brother, has a speech impediment, so that's extra confusing. His family laughs about the fact that when trying to say ´el carbon´ (a place that sells fried chicken) he says ´el cabron´ (a gay man). I've clearly been spending too much time with him because the other day I walked up to a moto driver and said ´el cabron, por favor´ much to the amusement of Sergio who ended up correcting me!

I may not be able to speak fluent Castellano before I leave but I can share with you some interesting jergas (slang) I've picked up:

  • A Peruvian guy doesn't have a girlfriend, he has: una jerma (I think this is only really used between men and may not be complimentary) or una gorda (means 'fat' and is a term of endearment that is perfectly acceptable to use when talking to your girlfriend)
  • A Peruvian chick doesn't have a boyfriend, she has: un gordo (means 'fat' for boys), un gil or gilberto, and my personal favourite, un machete
  • Another word for gay is 'brocoli'
  • Peruvians don't get married, they commit 'matrisuicida'.
  • 'gordo/a' and 'flaco/a' ('fat' and 'thin') are used all the time as terms of endearment and as general descriptions of people, e.g. 'He's the fat man over there'. 'Negro' and 'negra' are also used all the time for black people or anyone with darker skin than the majority. Anyone with slightly paler skin or hair than normal (this includes locals) may be referred to as 'gringo/a' (white person).

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

ALGUNAS FOTOS DE MI TRABAJO (Some photos from my job)

MESA DE CONCERTACION (loosely translated it means 'table of co-operation')



Mesa is an organisation formed to combat poverty throughout Peru by encouraging co-operation between various community and government organisations. This meeting (held on Friday) included people from various government ministries (education, health, the police, local government), human rights groups, and a tourist agency. Representatives shared information about their various areas of expertise and their views of the societal problems of Tumbes. I think it's a great idea, and what I understood of it seemed very interesting. DISA (the district health board that I work for) and Mesa work together quite a lot.






(Yes, it is a boring photo. I've taken a lot of photos of meetings that really all appear the same to me and grate against my journalistic sensibilities cos they're so static, but my bosses seem to consider them important.)

Anyway, the chick in the middle with the microphone is my boss, La Señora Aniana. The head of Mesa is the guy in the pink shirt (Evistar). He's talking to the President of Tumbes.



This is the President of Tumbes. I had to include this photo cos he just looks so sincere and passionate. Take a close look at his eyes if you can, they're very determined. He had quite an intense aspect throughout the whole meeting. I'm not sure how he kept it up.


UNA CAMINATA (Physical activity thingy)

Check this out - Physical Education in Peru includes dancing. How cool is that?! This photo is from a programme for school students that runs on Saturday mornings in various towns in the Tumbes region. I went to this one in San Juan de Virgen last Saturday. The games seemed remarkably familiar.





Friday, September 21, 2007

TUMBES Y EL TRABAJO (Tumbes and The Job)

TUMBES

I'm now in Tumbes which is perilously close to the equator and therefore much warmer than Chimbote. It's quite perfect at the moment but it sounds like summer could be sweltering. I have a new host family who are lots of fun and have, of course, already had a good old Latin American knees-up.


This is the music group that played at my host dad's 40th birthday. There were also so fab dancers that I didn't get photos of cos I ran out of memory.





My host 'mum and dad' (Frinetd and Luis)




My little brother and sister (Lenda and Sergio)



Me and Frinetd on the balcony outside my room. The top floor is the roof where the dogs and the washing line live (not always in perfect harmony).

EL TRABAJO

I'm working for DISA which is the Regional Health Board here in Tumbes. I really like the people and I think it's going to be an interesting place to work. They do much the same work as the District Health Board in New Zealand probably does - health promotion, regulation, inter-departmental communication, surveys, etc. Yesterday we went for a field trip to a couple of out-of-the-way places to give some presentations to local community groups. I think there's going to be a fair bit of travelling around to different places in the region which is very exciting for me.

The other exciting thing is that they have a big education project coming up and they want me to come up with some songs to teach school students and maybe take some English classes. I'm not sure how this fits into the whole health theme but I think it's kind of like a festival programme with lots of different community-type things going on. With somewhat limited Spanish skills I have to just go with the flow a little at the moment.


This photo is completely unrelated to my job except that I took it in one of the towns we did a health presentation in. I just thought it was kinda picturesque (although the house didn't come out as well as I would have liked).




SOME GENERAL INFO ON TUMBES FOR THOSE INTERESTED



Puyango, the area I live in. This photo is taken from the roof of our house. You can just see the countryside in the distance.



Territory: 4669.2km

Climate: It's sub-tropical with temperatures ranging from 17-36 degrees Celcius. There are periods of rain in the first couple of months of the year. Apparently it only rains in the afternoons though.

Political divisions: Tumbes has three provinces (Tumbes, Contralmirante Villar and Zarumilla) and 12 districts. I live in the Tumbes district which is in Tumbes province which is in the Tumbes region. But my suburb is Puyango (or New Tumbes) which means that I still have to say, 'to Tumbes, please' when I get in a coletivo to go to the centre of the city.

Population: I'd like to tell you the population but it seems to be different depending on what you read or who you talk to. I think this is because it's growing fast. In 1940 there were 25,709 inhabitants and in 2005 (according to the health plan) there were 215,635. I'm told Tumbes City is the smallest city in Peru.
Approximately 90% of the population is urban and it's a very youthful population with only 5% over 65yrs and a third under the age of 15.

Poverty: In 2001 46.8% of the population of Tumbes was living in poverty, with 7% living in extreme poverty.

Main industries: cultivation of rice, bananas (hmm...fried green bananas) and maize, fishing.


My impressions: It's quite a pretty city, especially in the centre - the cathedral and plaza are really classy (photos to come when I feel brave enough to pull out my camera in the area). The centre is nicer to wander around than the centre of Chimbote. There's a few more trees around, which is nice. Like Chimbote (and, I suspect, most Peruvian cities) there's a crazy, hectic chaos to the place. Somehow the population manages to be incredibly busy and rather relaxed at the same time.


TUMBES HEALTH FACTS FOR THOSE INTERESTED


Major health concerns (according to a DISA survey):
  • High prevalence of VIH/SIDA (HIV/AIDS)
  • High risk of transmission of malaria and dengue fever (don't worry, I'm taking pills)
  • Alcoholism and drug addiction

Health-related problems include:

  • Poor quality of health services
  • Inadequate basic sanitation and environmental contamination

An aside: I used a Ministry of Health toilet in one of the towns we went through yesterday and it was ugly - dirty, no loo paper, the loo didn't flush and there was no soap or water in the tap. I'm not sure they're really leading by example.